Old-world flavours abound at New India.

My first opportunity to recount my experiences at a restaurant, newly viewed through the more discriminating lenses of an aspiring food writer, arose when one of my friends — a well-traveled, culturally aware and food-minded young woman — recommended New India Restaurant to me as the best Indian food in Columbus. She had suggested that I try the lunch buffet, served from 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. during the week, which neatly suited my desire to sample a broad spectrum of dishes. Thus it was that I arrived at Bethel Center, a small strip mall in northern Columbus, in the early afternoon on a Thursday.

The restaurant’s exterior is unassuming in the drab, homogeneous manner of all strip malls, yet belies the authenticity of the experience awaiting its guests. Upon entering the tastefully dimmed interior, I was struck by its décor, which I’ve deemed “budget finery.” You can tell that none of the decorations are particularly expensive, but small touches of elegance abound — the tablecloths, though trapped underneath glass, are shot through with gold embroidery — and dark wooden paneling imparts a stately air reverently observed by the patrons’ hushed conversation. But décor is not the subject of this blog, and I was eager to dip into the fragrant curries beckoning to me from their heated trays, so I approached the quiet young woman acting, it seemed, as both hostess and server.

She guided me to a booth, poured me a glass of water, and asked if I’d like something to drink. I inquired whether she had any recommendations — I always make an effort to get suggestions from the staff, and as a result have enjoyed some treasures I may never have unearthed on my own — and she offered mango lassi as an option. As a cold, creamy yogurt-based beverage (here flavoured with sweetened mango pulp), lassi can subdue even the fiercest curries, and is thus an excellent choice to accompany Indian cuisine, particularly for those with palates sensitive to heavily spiced foods. New India’s version was delightful — thick and rich, the yogurt’s tartness tempered perfectly by sweet fruit. Further heartened about the upcoming meal, I wandered over to the buffet.

Ah, how I love Indian food — the building, often sweat-inducing heat; the surprisingly savory vegetarian dishes; the understated beauty of sauces in earth tones contrasted by vibrant reds and oranges. Before me was arrayed a smorgasbord of old and new friends alike, and I thrilled at the exoticism of the names alone (like “Aloo Baingan” and “Dal Makhani”), to say nothing of the complex, spice-laden aromas wafting up to greet me.

For my first plate, I took modest portions of Lamb Vindaloo, Tandoori Chicken, Saag Paneer, and Dal Makhani, along with basmati rice and two fried appetizers with which I was unfamiliar: Aloo Tikki and Chicken Pakora. The Vindaloo (chunks of lamb cooked in a spicy sauce), often a favourite of mine at Indian restaurants, did not disappoint here — intensely flavourful without being overwhelmingly spicy, redolent of garlic, with a hint of gaminess from the lamb, it stood out among the meat dishes. (As a neat linguistic tidbit, the name “Vindaloo” is actually derived from the Portuguese dish “Carne de Vinha d’ Alhos,” meaning “meat with wine and garlic,” which was brought to the Indian state of Goa and later made into a curry dish.)

The Tandoori Chicken (marinated in spiced yogurt and roasted in a cylindrical tandoor oven), easily identifiable by its vivid, almost unnatural red colour, was also excellent. The meat, still on the bone but tender to the point of falling off at the slightest prompting of my fork, tasted powerfully of chicken; I particularly enjoyed the slightly charred skin juxtaposed against the moist flesh. I’ve been told that this dish loses some of its appeal if not enjoyed freshly prepared, which I believe, but I was apparently lucky enough to catch it before it dried out. Thus ended the first of my carnivorous samplings.

My first two vegetable dishes offered contradictory experiences. I immensely enjoyed the Saag Paneer, or spinach cooked with an unaged cheese (similar to Greek feta in texture) indigenous to India. Anyone who thinks they don’t enjoy spinach should try this dish, as it may just convert them. Full-flavoured, with a healthy dose of meaty umami from the cheese, it seems almost too sumptuous to be vegetarian. Sadly, the Dal Makhani (lentils flavoured with spices and sautéed in cream) proved less inspiring, at least on this trip; I found them bland and watery, though what I sampled may have been the dregs just before they were replaced by a new batch from the kitchen. I intend to try this dish again on my next trip, in hopes that my initial impression was merely an unfortunate isolated incident.

The Aloo Tikki (small mashed potato patties, battered and deep-fried) reminded me of miniature, unspiced samosas without the peas to which I’m accustomed; though I enjoyed their texture, they were a bit bland without being dipped in something. Less successful still were the Chicken Pakora (chunks of chicken, also battered and deep-fried), which may have been overcooked, judging by their tough, dry consistency. Thankfully, the naan more than made up for these minor shortcomings — flaky, pleasantly chewy and slightly browned, the garlic- and spice-strewn flatbread was perfect for sopping up curries.

My second trip to the buffet rounded out my main courses and sides with Chicken Tikka Masala, Chicken Curry, Aloo Baingan, and the intriguingly named Nav Ratan Shahi Korma. The Chicken Curry was excellent, again offering strong flavour without being too hot. (I noticed that none of the dishes in the buffet was extremely spicy, which is likely by design to accommodate the Midwest palate.) I wish, however, that the sauce in the Chicken Tikka Masala could have permeated the meat a bit more, as opposed to being a separate flavour from the seemingly unadorned chicken. Despite being fond of spicy foods, I do enjoy mild, creamy sauces if they have the benefit of stewing with the meat.

I briefly considered my final vegetable dishes, both in shades of innocuous brown. Their Aloo Baingan (potatoes and eggplant) emphasized the silkiness of cooked eggplant through contrast with starchy, albeit still tender, potatoes; another vegetarian dish that could satisfy even the staunchest carnivore. The Nav Ratan Shahi Korma — “Nav Ratan,” or “Navratan,” means “Nine Jewels,” and refers to the number of grains and vegetables sautéed with fresh herbs and served with raisins and cashews in the dish — evoked poignant memories of my childhood. As a child, I enjoyed Indian cuisine at my friends’ houses during Diwali (“Festival of Lights”), and this was a flavour I hadn’t tasted in over a decade — vegetal, but balanced by cream and spice.

Though I had nearly gorged myself on that Indian feast, I couldn’t resist trying some of their dessert samplings, so Kheer, Mango Pudding, and Jalebi found their way onto a fourth plate. Kheer, or rice pudding, has a cooling effect after the meal similar to that of lassi, and I enjoyed the soft, supple texture of the grains for a moment before popping them between my teeth. The Mango Pudding, in which various fruits (largely pineapple in the sample I tried) were swimming, was tangy, slightly tropical, and overall delectable. I regret now that I didn’t have the presence of mind to capture a picture of my dessert, as Jalebi — small concentric rings of deep-fried batter, coloured in this case a subdued maroon, that have been soaked in honey — are difficult to describe adequately. Their flavour, too, is uncommon to the Western palate; I couldn’t place it at the time, except to know that I’d had it as a child, but later learned that it was likely saffron. In terms of texture, they were chewy, with a slight crunch from their caramelized sugar crust.

In a word — toothsome.

Thus ended an exceptionally enjoyable — and reasonable, weighing in at just under $10 for my meal and mango lassi, before tip — meal, which certainly does seem to be a contender for the best Indian food in Columbus. (That being said, I still look forward to trying other options to see how they compare.) Authentic food, polite (if quiet) service and low prices happily intermarry at New India Restaurant; those who already love Indian cuisine, or who are curious to try its masterful amalgam of curry, meat and vegetables, would be wise to visit.


New India Restaurant
5226 Bethel Center Mall

Columbus, OH 43220

(614) 442-7705